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Foz de Iguazu

29/10/2010

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Whilst not the highest waterfalls in the world, nor the widest or most powerful by water volume, the Iguacu Falls do have the reputation as being amongst the most spectacular, combining height, width and volume to create an amazing spectacle.

After a couple of days visiting them, from both the Argentine side and the Brazilian side, we were definitely in awe.

From our hostel in Foz de Iguacu, our landlady, Evelina, gave us very clear and detailed directions on how to get to the falls and what to do when you get there – “look to the right, look to the right, look to the right and all along you can see animals, wildlife, the river, the animals, the jungle and the falls – amazing!”. She has been running Pousada Evelina for we guessed over 20 years and had various photos and cards of thanks to prove it! She stated that the hostel was like a home and that she was now like our Mum – inclusive of a few house rules but generally just a concern for her guests to enjoy themselves.

So in addition to seeing the falls, we did our own churriscaria (Brazilian BBQ!), met some other travelers and just relaxed after 6 days on the road! We took a young guy from the UK (Kevin from Lamington Spa) with us to the Brazilian side of the falls and he was glad of some English speaking company after a week camping in Argentina. He was surprised that people didn’t just speak English (with an accent!) in South America so was struggling a little with Portuguese and Spanish. Yet he was in South America experiencing a different world whilst his mates wasted their money on the usual as he explained it.

We also met some newlyweds on a 4 month honeymoon – Tim and Vicki from London (via Buckinghamshire and Liverpool). When I returned our hire car to Curitiba, 8 hours away, they hitched a ride to keep me company, much appreciated at 3 in the morning! Tim is (almost?) famous as the lead singer and writer with The Sneer………..really good tunes and available at iTunes!

The most noticeable thing was that in the state of Parana, everything seemed better than what we saw in the North and East. Certainly wealthier than the Eastern towns we passed through but with no more (or less) charm than them. Little things in the small city of Foz de Iguazu stood out as more modern than places like Rio’s Copacabana – condominiums that were modern and livable, not  old and caged, churches that were clean and proudly located in the town centre with lots of trees and gardens. When Tim and Vicki and I turned up in Curitiba to return the hire car we found that Curitiba is maybe the most modern, clean city in Brazil – certainly the most impressive city I saw and by all accounts I have read I saw it as it is – just like a modern city you might find in Australia. A nice part of Brazil to leave from – off to Argentina.
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With Shelly on the Brazilian side
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From One Rio to Another - Rio de Plata

28/10/2010

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The Rio da Plata is an amazing river 1800km West of Rio de Janeiro, literally the Silver River, it has crystal clear waters, amazing fish and has been kept pristine through careful management. Molly has blogged about the trip out to Bonito and on to Iguazu Falls so this update is just photos. As we were told before going, no photo can do this place justice. Upon leaving I felt I had done one of the most amazing activities in the world - like a visit to a hidden world.
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Rio de Janeiro

28/10/2010

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Welcome to RIO!! In front of Christ the Redeemer, on top of the Corcavado
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Corcavado the heighest point on the left, Sugar Loaf Mountain on the right - Rio!
We arrived into Rio early morning and went straight into the city centre for a couple of days to catch up on rest – relaxing on the cruise was surprisingly exhausting!

The city came with several warnings – don’t ride public transport after dark, don’t walk around the city after 6.00pm and be careful of places that don’t have crowds…..and of course be wary when in crowds!

We were fortunate enough to have our own baggage boy from the ship to escort us and our luggage to the hotel – thanks Gil! As Gil only had the day in Rio we just went for some morning tea with him and then carefully strolled around the city. To be honest the city is not particularly pretty although the main streets have a wide, open charm.

By the second day we were keen to explore a little further a field so we took the metro as far as it would take us and then went by bus to one of the satellite suburbs with modern shopping and a variety of restaurants and entertainment. The metro was good and the bus sytem very simple and easy to use.

Having stayed out a little long (and eating way too much at an Applebees Restaurant) we were told to get a taxi by the wait staff as it was now dark and not safe for tourists on buses………..so with the taxi queue going nowhere, we took the bus! And it was busy, and it was dark – but it was good. And safe.

 Next day we were top meet with Shelly and Rhenda at Copacabana beach – as you do…….but first we wanted to get up to the statue of Christ the Redeemer. Of course we forgot one thing……it is a popular, international tourist attraction!

Like Buckingham Palace, the Eiffel Tower and the Big Koala, Corcovado as the mountain is known locally, crowned with the giant statue of Christ the Redeemer, is very, very popular.

So having got ourselves to the base and having queued and purchased our train tickets, we realised the train was another 90 minutes away due to queues – so we took a refund and vowed to return. We didn’t want to be late to Copacabana where we knew Rhenda and Shelly would be waiting………

So after an hour past the agreed time, sat on Copacabana, dodging rain squalls, drowning our sorrows and watching people run of the beach in the rain and then return 10 minutes later when the sun returned, we spotted Shelly and Rhenda. In their defence, they are from Kansas…..ooops, I mean, they were tied into the plans of the family they were staying with, so transport was out of their control.

Over a drink Shelly and I started to work on a plan for traveling together to the Iguazu Falls on the Argentinian border. Over the next two days that took shape through emails and a road trip was planned!

Meanwhile, back in Rio, we moved to Copacabana, visited the beach again, marveled at the ease with which we could ude public transport but also moaned at how very expensive Rio is.

Overall we enjoyed the main attractions of Rio but to be honest, we couldn’t see what the attraction was as a place to stay longer than a few days……….might just be us but old buildings, claims of great danger from criminal activity and hugely exorbitant pricing (think London, Paris and in some cases add 20%) don’t equal a great destination. But certainly worth a visit!!

The Christ the Redeemer statue and lookout was excellent and is a great way to see the size of Rio. The trip up takes quite a while despite the fact that from the city the statue seems quite close.

Molly has added an update to describe our road trip out to Bonito – we loved every minute of it and found that rural Brazil was very relaxed, interesting and much more rewarding than it’s large cities.    

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On Copacabana beach between rain squalls
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Back on Copacabana with a blue sky
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On top of Corcavado
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Our luggage boy from the ship - Gil. Quite useless but with a pleasant smile.
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A small plateful (and mouthful) at Applebees
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Brazil - Recife and Salvador

24/10/2010

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Grim faced in Salvador
Unfortunately, neither of these towns were the introduction we wanted to Brazil, Brazilian people or to South America.

At Recife we took a shuttle bus to the centre of the old part of the city. Old is an understatement – run down, dilapidated or dirty would be better descriptions. We really wondered how this country with considerable history, wealth, population and economic advantage in the region, could have as it’s third largest city a menacing, dirty and disorganized jumble with beautiful old buildings (including churches) going to ruin amongst temporary stalls and stores.

Some would say this is a little harsh but what you see is what you get and the Venice of South America is not what we saw, despite assurances to the contrary. Fortunately, friends on organized tours saw a very different side to Recife (beaches and panoramic views – better from a distance?) and were keen to see more so we figured the best option was to do a tour in Salvador and see the “best” of that city.

Not to be though – another day of menace and an overwhelming desire to be back on the ship. Something in these two cities wasn’t right. Apparently we were the first cruise ship of the summer season so perhaps there were more touts, salespeople and inexperienced guides out and about? There were certainly too many shifty looking kids and men hanging around waiting to take advantage of the unwary but worse was the fact that we seemed to stand out like sore thumbs, particularly on the Salvador tour – no more cruise tours for us, thanks!.

Despite the above description we still found the overly cautious warnings being delivered on the ship before arrival in Brazil quite amusing – apparently gangsters will cut your fingers off, take your rings and just hand you back your fingers!! Nothing like a 3rd hand, twice translated story to give a message a special air of ridiculousness.

Reading back over this it does seem a bit extreme but I think that is because I am finally posting this having been in western and southern Brazil where we found the towns and people much more interesting. Salvador does have some spectacular old architecture, an overall nice coastal outlook and minus the tour groups and touts an afternoon in the cafes along the town square would be pretty cool……………

And what of arriving into Rio de Janeiro by ship? Well, from Salvador to Rio took 36 hours so there was a day at sea that needs a mention……..

Our last full day at sea and for most of the day we were constantly treated to appearances by pods of migrating whales. Sitting on our balcony we only saw one side of the ship but there was rarely 20 minutes that weernt by that we diudn’t see whales. Spouts of water in the distance, tail slapping, babies, adults and then dolphins in our bow waves – a really amazing day at sea!!

Next morning was one of those special events as well – arriving into Guanabara Bay, Rio de Janeiro!

Glimpses of Copacabana Beach are nothing compared to the dominating image of the Sugar Loaf mountain and behind that the statue of Jesus Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor). There are many mountains with spectacular peaks, mostly covered by forest and of course there are the districts of the city itself. A great last morning to finish a great cruise.

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Land, ho!

9/10/2010

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We have arrived!! Currently in downtown Rio de Janeiro, having spent a lovely day at Copacabana. Apart from lot's of warnings from locals about crime, we are getting into the rhythym of South America..................it was obvious when we came ashore several days ago in Recife that we weren't in Kansas anymore Toto!!! Not like Asia, not like Europe and not as I remember North Africa. It does have similar weather to Australia................
Anyway, much blog updating to be done before heading off to try and catch another ship!!!!!! Flying is so passe'....
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Ashore in Croatia.
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Sunrise over the Croatian Coast (the Dalmatian Coast).
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