Whilst not the highest waterfalls in the world, nor the widest or most powerful by water volume, the Iguacu Falls do have the reputation as being amongst the most spectacular, combining height, width and volume to create an amazing spectacle.

After a couple of days visiting them, from both the Argentine side and the Brazilian side, we were definitely in awe.

From our hostel in Foz de Iguacu, our landlady, Evelina, gave us very clear and detailed directions on how to get to the falls and what to do when you get there – “look to the right, look to the right, look to the right and all along you can see animals, wildlife, the river, the animals, the jungle and the falls – amazing!”. She has been running Pousada Evelina for we guessed over 20 years and had various photos and cards of thanks to prove it! She stated that the hostel was like a home and that she was now like our Mum – inclusive of a few house rules but generally just a concern for her guests to enjoy themselves.

So in addition to seeing the falls, we did our own churriscaria (Brazilian BBQ!), met some other travelers and just relaxed after 6 days on the road! We took a young guy from the UK (Kevin from Lamington Spa) with us to the Brazilian side of the falls and he was glad of some English speaking company after a week camping in Argentina. He was surprised that people didn’t just speak English (with an accent!) in South America so was struggling a little with Portuguese and Spanish. Yet he was in South America experiencing a different world whilst his mates wasted their money on the usual as he explained it.

We also met some newlyweds on a 4 month honeymoon – Tim and Vicki from London (via Buckinghamshire and Liverpool). When I returned our hire car to Curitiba, 8 hours away, they hitched a ride to keep me company, much appreciated at 3 in the morning! Tim is (almost?) famous as the lead singer and writer with The Sneer………..really good tunes and available at iTunes!

The most noticeable thing was that in the state of Parana, everything seemed better than what we saw in the North and East. Certainly wealthier than the Eastern towns we passed through but with no more (or less) charm than them. Little things in the small city of Foz de Iguazu stood out as more modern than places like Rio’s Copacabana – condominiums that were modern and livable, not  old and caged, churches that were clean and proudly located in the town centre with lots of trees and gardens. When Tim and Vicki and I turned up in Curitiba to return the hire car we found that Curitiba is maybe the most modern, clean city in Brazil – certainly the most impressive city I saw and by all accounts I have read I saw it as it is – just like a modern city you might find in Australia. A nice part of Brazil to leave from – off to Argentina.

Unfortunately, neither of these towns were the introduction we wanted to Brazil, Brazilian people or to South America.

At Recife we took a shuttle bus to the centre of the old part of the city. Old is an understatement – run down, dilapidated or dirty would be better descriptions. We really wondered how this country with considerable history, wealth, population and economic advantage in the region, could have as it’s third largest city a menacing, dirty and disorganized jumble with beautiful old buildings (including churches) going to ruin amongst temporary stalls and stores.

Some would say this is a little harsh but what you see is what you get and the Venice of South America is not what we saw, despite assurances to the contrary. Fortunately, friends on organized tours saw a very different side to Recife (beaches and panoramic views – better from a distance?) and were keen to see more so we figured the best option was to do a tour in Salvador and see the “best” of that city.

Not to be though – another day of menace and an overwhelming desire to be back on the ship. Something in these two cities wasn’t right. Apparently we were the first cruise ship of the summer season so perhaps there were more touts, salespeople and inexperienced guides out and about? There were certainly too many shifty looking kids and men hanging around waiting to take advantage of the unwary but worse was the fact that we seemed to stand out like sore thumbs, particularly on the Salvador tour – no more cruise tours for us, thanks!.

Despite the above description we still found the overly cautious warnings being delivered on the ship before arrival in Brazil quite amusing – apparently gangsters will cut your fingers off, take your rings and just hand you back your fingers!! Nothing like a 3rd hand, twice translated story to give a message a special air of ridiculousness.

Reading back over this it does seem a bit extreme but I think that is because I am finally posting this having been in western and southern Brazil where we found the towns and people much more interesting. Salvador does have some spectacular old architecture, an overall nice coastal outlook and minus the tour groups and touts an afternoon in the cafes along the town square would be pretty cool……………

And what of arriving into Rio de Janeiro by ship? Well, from Salvador to Rio took 36 hours so there was a day at sea that needs a mention……..

Our last full day at sea and for most of the day we were constantly treated to appearances by pods of migrating whales. Sitting on our balcony we only saw one side of the ship but there was rarely 20 minutes that weernt by that we diudn’t see whales. Spouts of water in the distance, tail slapping, babies, adults and then dolphins in our bow waves – a really amazing day at sea!!

Next morning was one of those special events as well – arriving into Guanabara Bay, Rio de Janeiro!

Glimpses of Copacabana Beach are nothing compared to the dominating image of the Sugar Loaf mountain and behind that the statue of Jesus Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor). There are many mountains with spectacular peaks, mostly covered by forest and of course there are the districts of the city itself. A great last morning to finish a great cruise.

We have arrived!! Currently in downtown Rio de Janeiro, having spent a lovely day at Copacabana. Apart from lot's of warnings from locals about crime, we are getting into the rhythym of South America..................it was obvious when we came ashore several days ago in Recife that we weren't in Kansas anymore Toto!!! Not like Asia, not like Europe and not as I remember North Africa. It does have similar weather to Australia................
Anyway, much blog updating to be done before heading off to try and catch another ship!!!!!! Flying is so passe'....